During a recent Cambodian Threads meeting, we decided that in addition to Jake’s travel oriented writing, it would be fun to try to post about things that are happening over here as well.  So, here goes nothing.    

We’ve been keeping pretty busy stateside, preparing for the fall, and the start of scarf season. The leaves begin to change, the air starts to get a bit nippy around the extremities, and you think “man, I wonder where that scarf I was wearing last winter went?”  That’s when Cambodian Threads steps in to do its’ part. 

It’s been a great pleasure of ours to welcome Barrie Golden back to the states.  A MA based graduate of McGill University, she was instrumental in helping to co-coordinate the past few round of scarf purchases and donations in Phnom Penh this spring.  Back in the US now, she’s been helping us get our marketing ducks in a row for the fall. 

Drew Crane, an old friend of Jake and I’s, has been helping out quite a bit recently as well.  He comes from a finance and accounting background and has been very enthusiastic about the project.  He has a great thirst for travel like the rest of us, and is an all around bulldog and a very handsome man.  We’ve been bouncing ideas back and forth for the coming season, and things are starting to get exciting!

We’ve spent the summer months mostly getting organized for the fall push.  Thanks to my wonderful Aunt Jenny, we’ll soon have a batch of beautiful pamphlets for store displays, to ship with purchases, and just to inform the general public about what we are doing with Cambodian Threads. 

This project never could have gotten off the ground without a bunch of insanely generous people working for free, or close to it.  So, thanks are in order to Jenny (http://www.stretchstudio.com/ for her and Uncle Dave’s photography wizardry), and my bro Mike for doing the website, and everyone else that’s helped out from the beginning. 

Another big focus of mine during the sweaty Boston summer has been trying to get more stores on board carrying our beautiful silk scarves.  While on tour with my rock and roll band in July, with Jake and Barrie’s help, I was able to connect with a couple stores in the Southeast US.  We’ve also been experimenting with our first bit of paid advertising through Facebook and Google this summer, which has led to a couple more exciting store leads, from national chains to eco boutiques scattered around the East Coast, the response has been enthusiastic. We are trying to work out attending the Fair Trade Federation conference in Boston this Sep, which I’m told is one of the prime buying events for fair trade fashion this year…we’re all excited to explore that opportunity more and see if we can work out the logistics. 

Cambodian Threads makes it’s biggest donation of the year!  It was a beautiful Cambodian morning on June 28th as I set out at 7 am to meet Naysim Heng and her cousin Mr Long, an enthusiastic Phnom Penh based 26 year old bachelor who was eager to help in transporting the school supplies to Prek Bongkong for such a charitable cause.  Mr. Heng had arrived back to Phnom Penh from a trip in Laos wee hours before; he was exhausted, but when strapping the box of 400 notebooks, 800 pens, 7 maps, and 20 boxes of chalk onto his Honda Super Cub, he smiled as wide as the sun.  

We crossed the Mekong and worked our way up the dusty country road; I was really looking forward to tasting a Heng famous coconut from their farm, along with any other Khmer dish they cook so well.  Food, however, was a reward that could be met only once we had finished our mission of donation.  Thus, after a quick greeting and look at Mama’s newest styled silk being woven, we jumped back on the mottos and headed to the secondary school of Preah Takov.

 
The goal was to target around 350 students from grades 3-4 with enough extra school supplies so that teachers could continue to distribute any excess notebooks and pens.  That Monday morning the students were taking an exam.  The principle, director, and a few teachers sat with us outside exchanging information about education systems in both the USA and Cambodia.  The tower of school supplies laid out on the table was a barrier they used to hide their smiles and laughter as they joked with the big American.  

As 11 am hit with a KLANG from the principles iron triangle, the students turned in their exams and leaped out of their classrooms.  We had only a few classes gather in the courtyard, the others were to be given the school supplies the following day in class after another exam period.  The smiles on the children’s faces were glowing.  They listened excitedly to Naysim and I talk about the Cambodian Threads project, American culture, and the importance of education.  Naysim spoke, I spoke, the principle spoke, and then with the children sang their morning song.  Next, the supplies were piled high on each teachers arms and distributed to the genuinely grateful Khmer students.  We made sure that all the students received their notebooks and pens by having them wave their tools in the air.  With a cheer, they posted their hands skyward!  The CT gang left with thanks from the teachers and more discussion about future goals for the community.  It was a successful day and morale was high!  
 
The lunch table was filled with fried ginger beef, fish soup, piles of white rice, garden vegetables, various dipping sauces, and fresh fruits, including coconuts!  It was a delightful meal with great company, the Heng family.  I then proceeded to sink into their shaded hammock and fall fast asleep…zzzz…  As I dreamed, sister Naysiv and brother Mengleang packaged the next batch of their beautifully amazing hand made silk scarves to take back to the States.  
 
When I woke, Naysim and I talked about future aspirations: more diverse school supplies including modern equipment such as computers and calculators, and potentially starting a women’s group with educational workshops locally and in other desperate areas of Cambodia.  We both spiraled on talking passionately until it was time to get back to Phnom Penh.  We said our farewells and I went on to motto back to the dirty streets of the Kingdom’s capital, a short ride far removed from the bliss found on Prek Bongkong.

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Cambodian Threads has been progressing in a very positive way.  Last week, Josh Smith, who is CT’s newest team member as Cambodian affairs coordinator, and I went to Prek Bongkong village on a research mission to develop a stronger relationship with the school administration and understand future aspirations.  We arrived at the Heng home in time to eat lunch with the family.  We had a leisurely discussion after feasting on grilled chicken, fresh vegetables, and mountains of white rice.  As the noon sun peaked, we reclined in hammocks overlooking the Mekong River, sipped on coconuts, and gazed into the cloudless sky.   

When the 1pm school bell rang, Naysim, Naychheng, Josh, and I made our way over to the Peah Takov School to meet with the principle and some teachers.  It was interesting hearing some details about the school and community at large.  I was able to talk at length with two teachers, a young lady named Srey Leak and a middling man named Sok Heang, who both spoke enough English to hold an interview.  I wanted to know the inter-workings of the school so I asked dozens of questions and learned.  They told me that in the school of 2920 students (1320 being female), each class holds about 50 students and only a third to a half of the students have notebooks and pens to work with; often, students share.  When I asked how they felt as teachers in the rural area and if they get compensated appropriately, they told me that they felt proud to teach the rural children but the pay is very low, around $30-40 per month.  They talked about their village and how it was so special.  They both agreed that it was unique because of its beautiful simplicity, rolling rice fields and country agriculture copmpared with the hustle of the city.  When we spoke about future aspirations and means to achieve such ends, Sok Heang, using basic English to convey a powerful point, spoke very seriously about the need for system reforms to end corruption and to spread enough money around to all of Cambodia, not just the hands of the crooked officials.  He stressed the importance of education as a way to change social ignorance.  

We ended our conversation by speaking of things that Cambodian Threads can do to help in a bigger way.  Sreay Leak, who teaches both mathematics and English to sixth graders, gave a few suggestions for things that their school really needs: the number one thing was notebooks and pens, also world maps, globes, big rulers, calculators, cassette players, teaching supplies like chalk and administrative books, and a computer.  I felt inspired to help.  These school supplies that so many Westerners take for granted could change the course of many Cambodian school children’s lives.  Cambodian Threads is committed to the future goal of providing these school supplies for Preah Takov School.  It’s an ambitious future goal and we really need everyone’s help in regards to selling our scarves to get funding for this task, but we are excited to pursue it and feel as though we will succeed! So check out, purchase a hand- made silk scarf, tell your friends, and learn how you can help today!

The tuk-tuk, freshly loaded with 200 notebooks, 300 pens, and 7 maps, rolled off the ferry and onto Silk Island, destined for the village of Prok Bongkong.  Our trusty tuk-tuk driver, Sia, churned his sleigh up the dockside rubble, bouncing the huge box of notebooks with every bumpy pothole.  The early morning sun lifted the fog from the expanse of farms along the riverbank.  The morning salutations from the local children as the tuk-tuk passed created big smiles as we breathed in the anticipation.

We were greeted by the Heng Family with a breakfast of fresh mangos and young coconuts.  It was not long before Naysim, Naychheng, Barrie, our videographer, and  myself  were taking the short ride to the Preah Takov Primary School.  This was our fourth donation to the community of which the Cambodian Threads silk artisans live.  It was really positive seeing the reactions from the students and teachers as we rolled in; they remembered us and their eyes lit up.  That day, Cambodian Thread’s targeted students were 4^th-6^th graders.  The children quickly moved under the shade of the courtyard trees and, as their teachers orchestrated them into neat lines, their attention turned to what Naysim and the English teacher from America began to say.  The message about the importance of education being a vehicle for empowerment and positive change was emphasized in simple terms, first in English and then translated in Khmer.  Everyone could see how proud Naysim Heng was.  Ms. Heng, standing in front of the very same school from once she attended, was radiating.  Her family’s silk craft brought the community at large necessary school supplies, and she knew her effort was the foundation. 

The donation went very smoothly and both the children and the teachers were very appreciative.  After, we went back into the classrooms to give the world maps and play the “Find That Country” game.   It was another fun rendition and everyone enjoyed it.  We left the schoolyard as the lunch bell was struck.  It was a successful round of donations!

We arrived back to the Heng home and relaxed with a coconut.  I looked around and it really was apparent how much effort their craft requires.   Mama was dyeing the new collection of raw silk.  The younger daughter was spinning on the bicycle wheel while the Auntie was setting a new design on the looms.  Soon Naysim, Naychheng, and the younger brother were all working together to set the loose silk threads using an elaborate method.  This was taking place simultaneously as lunch was being prepared by Mama, Naychheng, and Money.  They work as a family and live as a family; their bond is so strong that through their efforts, they can better themselves.  They are not being broken up by modern domestic trends, nor are they forced to leave their home to the grim alternatives of factory working.  The Heng family is able to sustain themselves through their art and empower their community in the process; they are admirable.

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The holiday spirit was in the air as Cambodian Threads rolled into Prok Bongkong’s secondary school.  Instead of reindeer pulling a sleigh, we had a moto-bike pulling an open aired tuk-tuk.  Our gift was school material.  We had the floor of our carriage stacked high with notebooks and pens waiting to be given to the students.  As we carried the boxes over to the courtyard, we were greeted by a-couple-hundred smiling children who were standing with great anticipation, waiting for what this big Santa-hat-wearing American was going to say and do. 

Earlier that morning, I planned the trip to donate $100 worth of learning tools to Prok Bongkong, the village in which the beautiful silk scarves are being crafted.  This was the second round of donations.  After donating to the young primary school students last round, we chose to target the older 10-14 year old secondary children this time around.  I was working with twice the amount of money as last time; this is largely thanks to the scarves sold through Cambodian Threads and because of a generous donation by the Chachki Group (thanks family!).  I was pumped to get down to the market and purchase the supplies.

After exchanging our own Christmas gifts, my beautiful Canadian girlfriend, Melissa Gee, and I went out into the hot morning air and bargained for a tuk-tuk.  We chose Ceeha, a decent English speaking local driver who has provided reliable services before.  Once he understood that we were going to donate school supplies to Khmer children, he offered us a good price (all day for $10) and we were off riding in style.  We fought our way through the crowded Orrusey market, which was especially full on a weekday morning.  Because of the age of the children we were donating to, we went with the thicker and more durable notebooks, which ended up being about $0.30 each, and the local favorite blue pens at about $0.05.  Naychheng Heng, the energetic 20- year- old silk artist, came to meet us and help get the supplies.  An hour later, Ceeha was there to load the 300 notebooks and 300 pens into the tuk-tuk and navigate out of the traffic ridden market scene.  

We picked up Barrie, a Newton native who has joined our Cambodian Threads team, and drove out to get the ferry for the island.  The Heng family was there working on their silk art when we approached their wooden stilted house.  After a fresh coconut and a friendly chat, we headed for the secondary school which was only a short ride around the corner.  The entrance road was bumpy, and our tuk-tuk sleigh snowed the air with dust, covering the moto-bikes trailing behind.  As the dust settled, the figure of a distinguished Khmer man stood firm in the courtyard.  He was the school principle, and with one shake of the hand and a warm smile he welcomed us to the Preah Takov secondary school.

The students started to pour out of their classrooms and enter the courtyard.  They were all wearing their mandatory uniforms, and as they lined up in an organized fashion, one could see how much pride they took in maintaining a clean appearance.  I walked up with a huge box filled with notebooks and placed it on a plastic chair.  The students were respectfully quiet and the principle quickly addressed the hundreds of children before giving me the floor.  I thanked him and went on to speak to the children about what I thought would be an important and interesting message to share (translated for me by Naysim Heng who was standing beside me).   I spoke to the students about where I am from, the importance of Christmas giving, America, and then really tried to convey how important it is to study hard, gain a high level of knowledge, and do our part by making the world a better place one step at a time.   I told them that the key to success is education.  The smiling children then came to collect their Christmas gifts.  That look in their eyes was truly priceless.  They were so happy to receive their school supplies! I think they are at the age where they appreciate pens and notebooks and understand how these tools can be used.  I then handed material to a few of the children who were just hanging around the schoolyard and the teachers who were also so happy and appreciative to get the supplies.  We stayed and talked with some of the students who were trying to practice their English and the teachers who spoke about their school and how important the gifts we brought were.  It was a big success!

We stopped at the Heng home once again to relax before taking the bumpy dirt road to the ferry dock.  As the sun gently rolled behind the clouds, we took the boat across the Mekong en route to Phnom Penh where we had our friends preparing a big Christmas dinner.  We were exhausted, but felt proud and alive!

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Cambodian Threads is really coming along.  I’m trying to bring it full circle.  After the few months of going back and forth to Prek Bongkong (Silk Island), I’ve made a strong connection with the Heng family, who make the silk scarves.  Like their silk, The Heng’s are close knit and whenever I roll up on my trusty 1989 Korean Dailim moto, the children and women soon come out of the woodwork and give a warm salutation; I feel welcomed. They live in a rural setting; however, because of the proximity to Phnom Penh (about an hour), the villagers have some access to basic amenities.  Regardless, the children are still in need of basic school material.  Therefore, I chose to focus on the primary school of the community to try and help.  What better way to bring it full circle.

Last Tuesday was the first day I donated school material.  After an early morning of preparation, I went out to Orrusey market in Phnom Penh with the intentions of buying as much school material as $50 could and which could fit on my moto. The market was packed at 7:30 am with all the vendors and buyers flocking into the three story concrete building.  The exterior was littered with umbrellas and tarps hung up to give coverage against the rising sun to the locals who were swarming through the produce selection.  It’s wild to see some people sitting on miniaturized plastic stools eating their breakfast while others are looking at fruit basically on top of them in the same area that moto-dopes are parking their bikes and hustling fairs.

I walked into the market and gasped at the thick stuffy air; I was on a mission.  I haggled and bargained with a few sellers until I found a nice woman who understood what I was trying to do to help the children and gave me the local price. So I chose the Disney themed notebooks that are very fashionable for young Khmers and university students alike, the cartoon labeled pencils, sharpeners, and fun stickers.  A young stocky boy helped me tie on the goods, and just like that I had 200 notebooks, 400 pencils, 50 sharpeners, and 100 stickers strapped to my bike and ready for the ride out to Prok Bongkong.  What seemed like the fastest ride to Silk Island I’d ever taken brought me to a smiling Heng family.  Naysim, the daughter who I converse with most about the scarves, and her mother, Sok Eang, took me to Preah Takov primary school, which was only a short distance from their house.  The children were just finishing their morning lesson and after going into each classroom where I was greeted by wide eyed learners, the principle and the teachers brought the 170 odd students to the courtyard where we had prepared all the gifts.  The principle was so happy and shocked; she kept telling me and Naysim how thankful she was and how important the school materials were.  I started to hand out the gifts to the children; I watched them as they gathered around.  I remember that look as they accepted the gift.  It was as if their eyes were saying, “Wow, what is happening here?  No one ever does this for us.  What are these beautiful new gifts?  I’m going to guard these colorful gems with all my might.”  It was a really cool feeling for me.  I felt more accomplished giving out all those school materials than I had in a long time.  It made me want to keep going; that was only the beginning.  After talking with a few of the parents, teachers, and children who were all very thankful for the gifts that the big American Bfarangbrought, I went to eat lunch at the Heng family home before going back to Phnom Penh to prepare for my afternoon classes.  Success!

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Over the past few months I have been going back to Prek Bongkong and visiting the Heng Family a half dozen times.  It’s a pleasure for me to get away from the hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh and enjoy the simple country life on the island village.  I feel rejuvenated as the ferry crosses the Mekong River and I start seeing the lush farms filled with vegetables and tropical fruits.  When I drive up to the Heng Family’s home, they welcome me with such enthusiasm and hospitality.  Therefore, when I get an opportunity to get to Prek Bongkong, I go.

The Heng’s silk weaving and production is truly incredible.  They are artists and each scarf they create has been manipulated from raw threads into a masterpiece. Sometimes, I just sit back and meditate on how swiftly their hands grace the antique wooden tools through the tapestry of shimmering silk strung atop the broad looms; it makes me appreciate each finished scarf that much more.

In August, I placed my first custom order of scarves.  Although it was tricky conveying the exact color patterns and length which is desired, they were patient and accommodating to the selection.  They usually make scarves 160 centimeters long.  Based on preference, I wanted the artists to make extra long scarves which could be wrapped comfortably and in many different styles.  Thus, they graciously accepted the request to make scarves which were 200 cm in length.

At the end of September, Naysim Heng called me with the good news that the first batch of scarves was ready.  I remember looking through the bundle and feeling an overwhelming sense of success.  It had taken me quite some time from my initial search in the local markets, where I was confronted with only frustration and failure because of the lack of hand-made products and the surplus of Chinese and Vietnamese machine woven junk, to finding the loving Heng Family who made scarves which are amazing hand-made pieces of art.  The thing that really got to me that day is the way that the family members were so overjoyed as they accepted the money to compensate for their art work.  Naysim’s eyes wide held her hands out to take the few hundred dollars and said, “Thank you, sir.  With this money, we will be very happy this month.”  The soft few words were deafening.

I drove through the countryside village of Prek Bongkong after the scarves were securely fastened onto my moto-bike.  I looked across the rice paddies to find children playing on the risen mud paths.  They looked so happy and innocent taking dried rice stock and slashing it down on the dirt as they hopped along in unison.  They soon came closer to the road from where I was parked and one after another yelled a big, “Hello!”  It was probably the only English they knew and they did it with much laughter.  I smiled and greeted them reciprocally.  I thought to myself what potential they had to be that guiding force for Cambodia’s future; then it hit me hard that these children don’t have near the amount of access to opportunities as my peers and I were fortunate enough to be offered in the US.  I wanted to help them in some way.  I had a great desire to help foster their growth, and it struck me, what better way than educational material.

I went back to Phnom Penh with a greater sense of awareness and excitement for the next steps of the Cambodian Threads project: 1) send the hand-made, fair-trade silk scarves back to the states, 2) give back to the disadvantaged village from where the scarves are being made, and 3) continue my efforts with the Heng Family and help them economically with their artwork.

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